When it comes to the cuisines of the world, traditional Austro-German food might not be at the top of your list — it tends toward the mild, and the heavy. But consider the schnitzel: When done well — meat pounded to optimal thinness, breading well-seasoned, fried so that it’s extra crispy and golden hued — it’s one of the all-time most satisfying dishes. Even the fun-to-say name offers a little thrill. Here, we’ve rounded up the absolute best in New York, focusing on the classic veal Wiener (Viennese) schnitzel favored by hard-line traditionalists as well as the popular pork variant.
2. Blaue Gans
139 Duane St., nr. West Broadway; 212-571-8880
Over at the more casual, criminally under-patronized Blaue Gans, in Tribeca, Gutenbrunner uses pork in the Wiener schnitzel, which, compared to the veal, has a slightly milder, creamier texture, but is otherwise very similar to the Wallsé/Sabarsky version, and equally delicious. This one also gets a lemon round and fried parsley on top, and lingonberries on the side, but here the chunkier, saucier potato salad has the pickled cucumbers mixed into it.